Anchoring in a crystal clear bay and landing on a white deserted beach is always spectacular. This was no exception – but four colleagues and I were in Tasmania, not Queensland. We were on a five-day trip to Hobart and the delights of the Maria Island Walk, which had just won the adventure category of the Qantas Australian Tourism Awards in February 2009.

This was not to be a simple island trek, but involved a stay in top-rated hotels, dinner at restaurants not for the faint-hearted and a race down Mount Wellington by bicycle, topped up with a tour around the latest multi-million dollar winery, brewery and museum. Hobart harbour-side had an 'outdoorsy' feeling: sailors, fishermen, tourists in fleecy jackets and hiking boots. Bicycle paths, space, salt, fish and tar smell. Older sandstone buildings, weatherboard houses mixed with contemporary architecture. In the sharp light of autumn it really seemed like the last stop before Antarctica. The hotel rooms at the Henry Jones Art Hotel (www.thehenryjones.com) were stylish and roomy, lined with old wharf timbers. Dinner was at Smolt, a pleasant, modern restaurant that also serves pizzas, near the site of the famous Salamanca markets.

Next morning, after a decent re-pack (from “five-star hotel” to “'roughing-it”) and breakfast we set off for the Hobart office of the Maria (pron. Mah-rye-ah) Island Walk. After a final exchange of details and equipment check, we were on our way in the courtesy-bus to the chartered ferry at Triabunna (Try-ah–bunnah), north-east of Hobart. The fast, half-hour crossing to Maria Island was quite choppy and the weather didn't look too promising for showcasing blue water and distant views…

But the arrival was spectacular. We anchored in a crystal-clear bay and were transferred by dinghy to a white beach, where the owner of the Maria Island Walk, Ian Johnson, welcomed us. The canvas-tented camp was inconspicuously set up not far behind the dunes, in dense eucalypt bush with knee-high ferns. We unpacked and explored the site. The tents, kitchen tent and toilet building were connected by double-planked boardwalks to minimize impact and looked well-designed. Apparently everything is taken away for the winter period and in a few days the site can look like no one has ever been there. That afternoon was spent interviewing the owner and encountering wombats and kangaroos during a short walk. One colleague was particularly interested in spotting a little bird called the Forty Spotted Pardalote. The call of the bird, a soft “wheh-wheh”, could be heard in eucalyptus trees - but we saw the bird only clearly in the 'Birds of Tasmania' book later on.

This small island is certainly very special. In some parts it looks very harsh, windblown and dry and any pasture left is down to soil-level. However, the eastern side, up the hills, seems damper and more richly vegetated.

Abel Tasman named Maria Island after Van Diemen's wife. There are signs of an earlier presence by Aborigines, such as grave sites and many middens. Convicts were sent there before Port Arthur was opened and in the 1800s an Italian tried to set up a business in cement works but was unsuccessful in the end. In 1972 the whole island was declared a National Park, when not only the farmers had to leave but even the lady that ran the communications and post office. Her house is still there, as are other buildings in the northern part of the island, which is called Darlington.

Day two was spent walking north to Darlington, for our final night on the island in a period-furnished house with electricity and showers, a beautiful dinner – and watching some Fairy Penguins near the beach.

On our last morning, we gazed at shell fossils more than 200 million years old and set in thick blocks, resting on the spectacular northern rocky shore of Maria Island. We hurried up a hill through the drizzle and misty forest to reach the top of Mount Bishop and Clerk, sometimes wondering why we were doing this, climbing over rocks covered in lichen and then negotiating the “Hillary-Step”, the final tricky bit before reaching the top. The windy 630m high summit of Mount Bishop and Clerk consisted of large dolorite boulders and all we could see around us was thick fog. But we had a strong feeling of achievement. One of our guides, Ben, told us that on a clear day you can see the sheer drop down to the ocean, with immense views including white sandy bays on rich blue-coloured waters. For now, we could have been anywhere, but during the descent I still had a grin on my face.

The Maria Island Walk was really worth doing. Unfortunately we only had time for part of it and there was clearly much more to see on this island.

Back in Hobart we checked in at the Islington Hotel (www.islingtonhotel.com) The five-star interior felt cosy and tastefully furnished with beautiful art on the walls. Dinner was at Monty's (www.montys.com.au) for one of the most exquisite-tasting meals I have had for a long time. Everything was perfect.

Next day three of us were collected by Andrew from Island Cycle Tours (www.islandcycletours.com) for the mountain bike descent of Mount Wellington. The first part of the descent, from a good 1270m above sea level, was back down the road along which we had come up. The exciting part was when we went off the road and down a steep fire trail. We learned to hang over the saddle for balance and to have our paddles level with the ground. Instructor Andrew was obviously an experienced mountain biker and taught us the ropes in a patient and pleasant manner.

We then visited Moorilla Estate (www.moorilla.com.au), a modern and arty-looking winery and brewery not far from Hobart that produces three different types of “Moo Brew”. We had lunch there and saw some of the building and accommodation available, plus a video about the Museum of New and Old Art (MONA), which is currently under construction in the grounds of the winery and will be opened in late 2010. It will mostly contain the private collection of the owner of Moorilla, David Walsh. We were back in Hobart for our final night in Tasmania and a dinner at the Islington itself this time, at the reading table in the Library, where proprietor Thomas served us personally.

On the way to the airport next day, the taxi driver also did his bit to promote this part of the world, by convincing me to buy some special Tasmanian organic large purple garlic. I will certainly return.