DAVID HANCOCK is a Sydney-based people and location photographer with over 25 years experience. His work has been published in major national and international newspapers, newsagencies and magazines. Hailing from Kiwiland, here he captures the joie de vivre of Maori people, their land, art, food, history and culture on this week-long FCA trip to one of the world's most beautiful countries organized by Tourism New Zealand.

In retrospect we all decided it was serious case of "out-sourcing"! Upon arrival at the celebrated Te Papa Museum in Wellington during our Matariki-Maori New Year tour we were greeted by an Indian tour guide!

As an ex-patriot kiwi it struck me as a little odd but the man appeared to know what he was talking about as he lead us through the various intriguing features of the place.

It wasn't until he reckoned that the Maori found their way to New Zealand by following the Godwit at 30,000 ft that I began to feel a little uneasy about the veracity of his information. As far as I knew he may well have been correct in his assertions, but it had the result of mesmerising those in attendance and I felt it my duty as the token Kiwi to question him more closely.

He made very short work of me and continued on with his unrelenting monologue of disassociated facts and figures, which depending on the personality either bewildered, bemused or convulsed.

It was the a huge departure for us all as from the start the tour had impressed us all with it's disarmingly direct and honest nature.

FCA members with Sidah Russell from Tourism NZ (Centre)

For me it started atop Te Mata peak in a freezing 6C breeze with Tony Mako delivering a traditional Powhiri or welcome. This Maori protocol is a profound experience. It is far more than a simple "welcome" and the word welcome is totally inadequate to describe it. In literal translation it means venturing into the unknown and then sharing the experience of information and knowledge.

We were initially treated to an oration in Maori that described the area and love of land that they have. Although we couldn't understand the language, Tony and fellow Kaumatua or elder Tom Mulligan left us in no doubt through gesture of just how intimately connected with the land they felt. Just in case we didn't get the gist, which was pretty plain, they explained it all in English afterwards. Then with a brief pause for a chuckle they both sang for us in Maori in their inimitable way.

Urs gave a short and concise reply as to the purpose of our visit and the ceremony was completed with a Hongi. Even this well-known Maori device has more meaning than I had ever understood. As you touch noses, it was explained, you acknowledge you share the same air, as you touch heads, you share the same knowledge. After you have "hongied" you are no longer a visitor but Tengata Whenua or people of the land, and accorded all the rights and obligations that go with it.

Jim Edwards with a load of Tourists and Foreign Correspondents

The day continued pleasantly as we were driven from a Waka ride, conducted by the delightful Jim Edwards and family to the salubrious Black Barn Vineyard for a first class Hawke's bay luncheon including a couple of the celebrated Bluff Oysters.

The Matariki Festival that evening was poorly attended by locals. Someone had forgotten the Lions were playing Bay of Plenty in Rotorua and even the last minute placement of a large telly in a pavillion nearby failed to rally the crowd. For me, it was typical of the many Maori cultural festival events I had attended as a boy.


Weak attendance never affected the spirit of the performers and it didn't this night either. The extraordinary Kahurangi dance group gave a spirited performance despite the cold and the night wound up with a firework display. I'm not sure about firework displays these days but Kahurangi on their own made the event worthwhile.

Kahurangi Dance Group at Matariki festival

Urs eats an Ostrich burger with Tanya from Hawke's Bay tourism

Poi joy........Kahurangi at the Matariki dinner

Ripeka Kireka.....Winner of the Maori bread competition

The Hastings Farmers Market is a testament to the vibrancy of the local economy. I breakfasted on an Ostrich burger and a crisp New Zealand rose apple. Items for sale varied from huge wedges of local hand-made cheese to smoked venison and ostrich and the trade was very brisk. We also tasted authentic Maori bread baked by the irrepressible Ripeka Kireka who sat and talked of her life and passions as her beautiful child Irene sat in her lap.

Kaumatua Tom Mulligan at Cape Kidnappers

A visit to the Cape kidnappers Gannet colony was an opportunity to sight one lonely chick sitting on it's nest waiting for the strength or fortitude to make the leap from the cliff. As the old saying goes "the first step is the hardest" and for this gannet it was particularly difficult. We all felt a sympathy for it's plight, left there by it's parents and knowing that when it made the leap it was committed to a 2000 mile non-stop odyssey to the warmer climes of Australia.

Elena plays at the Matariki dinner

That night we dined with the locals at Matariki wines. The food was excellent and the timing superb. Owner John O'Connor was presented with a Kiwi cloak, which in New Zealand is akin to something more than a Knighthood and from my measure of the man he more than deserved the honour. We were entertained again by Kahurangi and the extraordinary violin virtuoso Elena. Bulletin Business editor Alan Deans and myself were the last members to depart, making a hasty exit as John O'Connor and a few of the locals were sitting down to start, we gather, on the fortifieds.

Apart from Te Papa, Wellington provided further evidence of the strength of contemporary Maori art and culture in a visit to the Marae at Waiwhetu in Lower Hutt and a meeting with members of the remarkable Hetet family and associates. Later in the day we visited "Ora" their Gallery outlet in Wellington run by another member of the family.

We ended our day in Wellington with a meal at Kai in the Bay and a visit to Club Havana near the top of Cuba Street. It was very quiet and subdued ending to out trip in the little club but it was 9 pm on a cold winter Monday night and given the activity of the previous days we were all more or less ready for a gentle sleep at the Novotel.