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Trips & Features

On The Ghan, with the Queen's Baton
By Paul Cotton

John Lombard
Paul Cotton is the FCA treasurer and has been a member of the FCA since 1990 when he was New Zealand's Consul-General in Sydney. Since retiring from the diplomatic service, he continued to reside in Sydney, representing New Zealand's interests in the build-up to the 2000 Olympics and now writes an occasional column for New Zealand newspapers. Here, PAUL COTTON, shares his memorable journey on The Ghan with the Queen's Baton.
Photo Credit: Sam Tinson / GSR

Half a dozen fortunate members of the FCA recently had an opportunity to travel on The Ghan from Adelaide to Darwin, courtesy the Great Southern Railways

On a balmy Sydney afternoon, we boarded the Virgin Blue flight to Adelaide. A taxi to the Keswick station and soon we were meeting other media folk from most Australian states and two from New Zealand. GSR wasn't missing a trick

Our associate and host Philip Engelberts (PEPR Publicity) was there to get us aboard and we were soon settling into our comfortable double cabins, one each, in Gold Kangaroo class

The Ghan is no ordinary train. At Adelaide Keswick Station the train was such a monster that it had to be parked on two platforms and then linked up before the journey commenced. There were 36 carriages plus a couple of car carriers and the total length was more than 800m

We were comfortably settled in a set of carriages near the front of the train. The next carriage along was our personal lounge car with bar and comfortable seating. There's even a smoking capsule for those who must. It was soon noted that the bar was wide open and all ours!

Linked to the bar was the Queen Adelaide dining car with tables for four and a superb menu and wine list. Everything was cooked on board. We were treated royally by GSR and tongues were loosened as we rolled through South Australia. There was hardly a pause even when someone noticed we were passing through the notorious Snowtown

There are reports that the partying in the open bar continued far into the night but signs of this the next morning were few and far between
John Lombard


The Queen's Baton joined us at Alice Springs, the first stop more than 17 hours after leaving Adelaide. It was to arrive there by air from Mt Isa and a small group of us gathered at Acacia Park and waited and waited and waited in the sultry heat. A group of aboriginal children had been drive 80km to be there to welcome the Baton. They had their sandwiches and oranges while we gently simmered in the heat

The temperature was 40degrees. A large sign told us that "No alcohol is to be consumed in this Park" but across the road there was a pub. The temptation was great but when we reached the door we found the pub was absolutely full. It was 1pm on a Monday. We wondered when the pub had opened. The answer probably was that it had never closed

Finally, the Baton arrived. The escort cavalcade of 16 vehicles outnumbered the adult spectators. A brief welcoming speech by an aboriginal representative and Bruce, an aging footballer and "a bloody good guy", took the baton in hand and shuffled off down the empty road, closely surrounded by his police escorts. Nobody came out from the pub to wave

The rest of our group members had been taken to visit Desert Park. They rejoined us with tales of splendid exhibits and more unusual animals and plants than most had ever imagined

Tradition was maintained as The Ghan left Alice Springs. The Baton was delivered to the engine driver by an Afghan mounted on a camel. As the train glided out of the station, we headed straight to the lounge car

Alice Springs to Tennant Creek is six hours and the Baton was shown briefly there late in the evening. Katherine gave it a trot through the town on our final morning, but most of the group took the opportunity to take a boat trip up the spectacular Katherine Gorge. A bit of a rock scramble here and there, but most were able to manage it.

At 4pm we arrived at our destination, Darwin. As the Great Southern Railway's coach was taking us to our hotel the driver welcomed us with the news, "You can't swim at Wangi., what with the undertow and the crocodiles."


We stayed at Skycity, the only 5-Star beachside resort complete with casino. The New Zealanders felt at home there as it's owned by Skycity Auckland. The management gave us a cocktail hour in a gaming room where you can see the sun set through windows on one side and rise through windows on the other. Then off we went for dinner at Peewees Restaurant on a shady beach overlooking the Arafura Sea. Here, we were the guests of the Northern Territory Tourist Commission and they gave us a splendid farewell feast.

Back to the Casino and a number hit the gaming tables. At least one of our party managed to put together winnings of $1,000 before she generously gave it all back to the management.

We went our separate ways in the morning, most returning to Sydney via Brisbane by QANTAS. Our gratitude to Philip and PEPR, Great Southern Railway and our Darwin hosts. These are associates who truly do their bit for the FCA.
Photo Credit: Sam Tinson / GSR

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